Nusfjord in the Lofoten Islands – a fishing village you should not miss!

The Landscape

After taking the detour off the E10 between Napp and Ramberg, you travel down a gorgeous winding road that leads to the beautiful tucked-away harbour of Nusfjord scattered with delightful yellow and red fisherman cabins, traditionally known as rorbuer.

With its protected status and quintessential appearance, Nusfjord is like an open-air museum. It boasts an old-fashioned village store painted in jade green with a cosy cafe attached, as well as a workshop making cod-liver oil, a sawmill and a forge. Everything is wonderfully preserved in a snapshot of how the village might have looked 50 years ago or longer.

Walking around the place, you might get a natural smell of cod drifting through the air which reminds you that this is still a working village where you can spot cod hanging out on the racks to dry along with a few boats in the harbour.

There’s also a restaurant called Karoline that serves freshly served catch-of-the-day and accommodation in old fisherman cabins, most with panoramic views of the fjords and mountains.

The morning after our stay, we woke up early and the sun was shining as though on a summer’s day (it was the beginning of April). We could hardly believe our luck as we raced onto our balcony and prayed to Apollo it would stay that way.

Alas, it did not. In no less than an hour the sun recoiled and the heaven’s opened. But the change in weather wasn’t so bad after all, adding a bit of drama to the landscape. As I saw the clouds move closer together and lace the mountain peaks I realised Nusfjord looked more majestic now than ever.

That ability to look beautiful whatever the weather is important in Norway, a country where rain, wind, snow and sun come and go many times between night and day.

The Rorbuer / Fisherman Cabins

As soon as I stepped inside the rorbu (fisherman’s cabin), I knew I didn’t want to leave. It’s the kind of place a writer goes if they want to finish the last chapter of their novel, or where two lovers choose to lock themselves up for a week of romance in front of a roaring fire.

We stayed in one of the modern cabins which is great for people who enjoy a touch of luxury, they are really spacious and fitted with all the mod cons.

However, guests also have the choice to stay in more traditional rorbuer which maintain authentic features, some with bunk beds and original wooden paneling. Even though these are older, it’s arguably more of an experience to stay in a more authentic cabin.

Breakfast at Nusfjord Rorbuer is located by the main reception. The buffet is imaginatively spread across an old boat and offers all the delights you would expect from a traditional Scandi breakfast including herring and waffles with jam. The dining area is in keeping with the cabins with exposed woodwork and large windows letting in beams of sunlight overlooking the fjord and mountains.

Interestingly, there are five protected rorbuer on the Lofoten Islands and all five are located in Nusfjord. We got the chance to look inside two of them which gave us a good impression of how fishermen used to work and how they’d sleep. We were surprised to learn that guests have the opportunity to sleep in these protected cabins during the summer at a cheaper price to the renovated ones. I thought a night in these protected cabins might be more expensive, but they’re not equipped with bathrooms or modern heating, making them less comfortable for sleeping. If you’re on a budget however, it would be worth looking into.

Additional Information

Where to stay: Nusfjord Rorbuer
Best time to go: Although Nusfjord is less popular than many villages, it’s also smaller and more contained so you might want to avoid peak summer season.
Extra costs: In summer, there is a 75 NOK fee to get enter the village. This is to avoid overcrowding and contributes to the preservation of the site.
Want more tips and inspiration? See my earlier post about the Lofoten Islands.

Are you planning a trip to the Lofoten Islands?